For months, the Hopkinton Board of Health has been playing a game of cat and mouse with some local residents over the operation of unlicensed food establishments in the Legacy Farms neighborhood. As one is forced to close another seems to pop up just as quickly. Most recently, on May 30, Health Director Shaun McAuliffe sent an Cease and Desist Order to one resident, stating that the board had received an anonymous complaint that the homeowner was operating an “unpermitted retail food service establishment” in violation both of town law and the Legacy Farms Community HOA.
Chapter 8.301.11 of the Federal Food Code states that a person may not operate a food establishment without a valid permit to operate issued by the regulatory authority. Per 105 CMR 590.000, any person who fails to comply shall, upon conviction, be fined not more than $100 for the first offense and not more than $500 for a subsequent offense. The offenses accumulate; each day’s failure to comply with an order shall constitute a separate offense.
Through a FOIA request, HopNews obtained at least 6 different notices of violation issued to Hopkinton residents since 2020.
It’s not just homemade take-out food the board is battling. Ethnic grocery stores such as GroceryOL.com and Swagat Indian Grocery are now using local homes as a point of distribution.
“Several of the residents were simply ignorant of the permitting process and requirements,” said Director McAuliffe. “I am actively working with our state representatives to locate a space and an owner that would be interested in operating an incubator kitchen to support the residents that want to open a business,” he added.
Ordering through these unlicensed kitchens is done secretly, through group text chains or WhatsApp, and payment is made through Zelle or Venmo.
Through a local source, HopNews obtained contact information for one such neighborhood kitchen, which in this case serves authentic Bengali food. On Thursday, June 6, we texted the number asking for a menu of available options. We received the menu, but the sender was naturally cagey in their response.
“May I know who this is?,” they replied.
Not knowing the system, we ordered Shukto, Chilli Paneer, Chicken Curry, and Paneer Kadhai, expecting same-day pickup.
“You need to let me know 2/3 days before,” they replied. We set a date for the following Thursday for pickup.
Throughout the week we exchanged several other messages, asking if we’d like to add items to our order. It seemed we were not the only party they were cooking for that week and our chef was leveraging economies of scale.
On Wednesday (a day early), we received a message that our food was ready for pickup that day. Unlike a traditional restaurant, the meal seems to prepared on their time, not yours.
We arrived at a nondescript house with a child’s bicycle in the front yard and knocked on the door. Our chef, dressed in business clothes, was prompt in delivery, and the items were neatly packed in a Tavern on the Square takeaway bag. Each dish was served cold and ready to reheat. There was a sticker that read “Thank you for supporting my small business” on each container.
“I’ll send you Venmo instructions,” she said, as she handed us the bag.
Each dish was a double order, and the total was $115, with no tip permitted. It was more than enough food to feed a family of four, with leftovers.
And how did it taste? Truly authentic and incredibly spicy.
Unlike a local Indian or Bengali restaurant, where many of the gravies seem made with the same base, the flavor profile was unique across all dishes. The chicken curry was very rich; the meat was moist and the spices were balanced perfectly. Cardamom seeds and cinnamon sticks had been added for extra flavor. The Chili Paneer was perfect; spicy and soft, with green pepper and onions simmered in a complex sauce.
Did we mention that it was spicy? It was the kind of heat that was cumulative, and by the end of the meal we were sweating and had a trace of tears in our eyes. It was so good that it became a challenge to get through for our Western palates. We washed it all down with a cold beer.
At 10:00 that evening we received a follow-up message: “Did you like the food?” We replied that we’d loved it but had been unprepared for the heat, and now we knew for next time. “Ooopppssss. I should have asked you the spice level. Soooo sorry,” she replied.
We will absolutely reorder, either from the incubator kitchen or directly. It’s not often you get the true taste of South Asia in Metrowest.
Ok, pal, I’m at the end of my rope. You know I love food. I’ve begged and begged but yet you leave me starving in the shadows as you run around eating everything without me.
Maybe you should start doing the podcast without me too???? Hmmmmm?
Jim, I think he needs the next podcast catered 🙂
I do not like Indian food, however, this article is fascinating. Well done.
You report that this kitchen business is one of several that are unlicensed, violating not only the federal food code and town law, but also the legacy Farms HOA rules. The town’s health director has been trying to shut them down. Yet your article seems to have turned into an advertisement for this illegal kitchen and you state you will absolutely reorder, either from the incubator kitchen [which doesn’t exist] or directly. The people running these kitchens knew the HOA rules and they are ignoring them. The federal and town regulations are in place in large part, to protect the public health. Additionally, the town earns tax dollars from licensed kitchens/restaurants. The people who run these kitchens are making money without paying taxes (income or business). I would never get food from them and am somewhat shocked by your endorsement of the one you tried.
Somebody please help this cook do a pop up in town!! I NEED this food!!!
Please open a great Indian restaurant in town!!!
Ordering from an unlicensed vendor and giving praise is a kick in the teeth to lawful establishments. Then to state you’ll order again from this unlawful kitchen is beyond pale. The food may be great, but will you also be giving free advertisement to our many other food establishments?
Yet another in a series of examples where HOPnews and it’s editor like to stir the pot, cause controversy, create click bait, appeal to the lowest common denominator and let’s be honest; to rally support for the not so subtle right leaning agenda of the owner/editor in chief. Please don’t try to dispute this, it’s glaringly obvious.
This approach will eventually backfire so stick to your roots, post photos of cars going the wrong way down one way streets. Your well written/researched articles are a thin veneer covering a divisive agenda.
I love all a types of food but unless it’s a one time food truck for an approved event I say no.
If we want to move to Cambridge we will.
What a confusing article. He goes at great lengths to point out these establishments are illegal, names them, and then orders from them. But then seems to be giving them an advertisement? What?