And now for our summer dispatch, a bit further afield than Hopkinton…

While many Hopkintonians escaped the heat wave and headed for the Cape, we took a few days off to explore beautiful Iceland, an island that is comprised almost entirely of basalt, a type of volcanic rock. Iceland is one of the most active volcanic regions in the world, with more than 30 volcanoes and eruptions that occur every 4-5 years.

The landscape is best described as lunar. There are very few trees – in fact, there are no naturally occurring forests on the island. Sparsely inhabited, visitors traveling from Keflavík International Airport are greeted with miles of undulating rocks, cracks and crevasses dotted with the occasional brightly painted house, all shadowed by a towering volcano. Fittingly, during the 1960’s, NASA trained astronauts on Iceland to prepare for moon missions. 

Iceland is surprisingly accessible, with multiple daily flights from Boston and other major US cities. Many tourists see the capital city, Reykjavik, on a 24-hour layover en route to other European cities. Such was the case for us last year; as we wrote in Adventures in Europe, Iceland was our last stop after a tour through Belgium, France, Guernsey and Spain. What we saw in that short amount of time was intriguing and we committed to exploring the island further. 

Iceland has only 377,000 citizens but hosts more than 2 million tourists per year. It wasn’t always this way. In 2008, the Icelandic economy collapsed, crippled by the global financial crisis. The Icelandic króna depreciated rapidly, forcing the government to step in and nationalize the three biggest banks. But because of the collapse, Iceland became an affordable destination for international tourists, attracted by its natural beauty and moderate year-round climate (ranging from 27°F in the winter to 59°F in the summer). Then in 2010, the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull volcano (video), while initially disruptive, brought significant international attention to Iceland, showcasing its unique natural attractions. Adventure tourism in Iceland was born, boosted by the low-cost carrier Icelandair offering a stopover program that allows passengers to stay for up to 7 days at no additional cost. 

And while Iceland is cheap to get to it can be expensive in many other ways. It’s an island where not much grows, so almost everything is imported. Expect to pay more for a rental car, fuel, groceries, restaurants, and tickets than you might elsewhere. On the other hand, where else in the world can you hike a volcano and swim between two continents on the same day?

Iceland is also incredibly safe. Violent crime is virtually nonexistent and it consistently ranks as the most peaceful county in the world. Police officers are unarmed and infrequently seen, and the country has no standing army or navy. No matter where you are – in the middle of Reykjavik or a tiny coastal village – the vibe is tranquil and entirely civilized. Perhaps this can be partially attributed to Iceland’s notable gender balance in government. The Prime Minister is female, as are the Ministers of Foreign Affairs, Education, Culture, Justice, Infrastructure, and Agriculture. 

“Our country is run by women,” said one of tour guides. “That’s why everything works and there are beautiful flowers everywhere.”

Six Day Itinerary

Although there are many tours that offer pickup in Reykjavik, we feel the best way to see Iceland is with your own wheels, which allows for much more flexibility. Renting a car in Iceland is painfully expensive, especially if you use one of the on-airport agencies, like Hertz. We found a much better deal using Saga Car Rental, which is just off the airport and offers shuttle service.

Day 1: Exploring the Golden Circle

Iceland’s Golden Circle is a popular tourist route that includes three major attractions: Þingvellir National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, and the Gullfoss waterfall. This 186-mile loop from Reykjavik offers a stunning showcase of Iceland’s natural beauty and geological activity.

Day 2: Exploring Reykjavic

The capital feels more like a village and less like a city. Shops and restaurants are all easily within walking distance and a path skirts the ocean for miles, making it perfect for a morning run. The city is quiet and clean; unlike other European cities, horns are used sparingly.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention how excellent the food in Reykjavik is. Like any city, it hosts all different kinds of food, so if traditional Scandinavian cuisine (pickled herring, anyone?) is not your thing, fear not: Reykjavik is replete with options, and no matter how fancy the restaurant may be, the fish of the day is always a reliable choice. Icelanders take pride in their culinary skill, with quality and service rivaling any other major European city.

Day 3: Take in the countryside via horseback

There is only one breed of horse in Iceland, because for more than a thousand years it has been illegal to import any other type of horse. The Icelandic horse is a unique and hardy breed known for its small stature, strength, and distinctive gaits and they are generally friendly, intelligent, and easy to train. They are known for their good temper and strong, independent spirit. (link to tour)

Day 4: Hike a volcano

After 6,000 years of dormancy, Mount Fagradalsfjall, located on the Reykjanes peninsula, exploded in 2021 and then again in July 2023. Lava began to spill from new fissures, creating lava fountains and producing significant amounts of volcanic gases, including sulfur dioxide​. In the initial hours, the earth split open, and lava flowed out from the fissures, forming new lava fields, and by July 31 fresh lava covered roughly 1.5 square kilometers, equivalent to about 280 football fields.

The area is now open to hikers who want to take a closer look at the lava field and to peer into the crater. (link to trail maps)

Day 5: Relax at the Sky Lagoon

Iceland is renowned for its geothermal activity, which has led to the creation of several popular geothermal lagoons and spas. The most well-known is the Blue Lagoon, and although we’ve not visited, we’ve heard mixed reviews on it (specifically that if you have blonde hair you may emerge with a tint of green following your visit).

We recommend the Sky Lagoon, which is located near Reykjavik and offers an infinity-edge pool with panoramic ocean views, a cold plunge, and a seven-step spa ritual. There’s no time limit and each guest receives two complimentary drinks. (more info)

Day 6: Explore the South Coast

The Ring Road, also known as Route 1, is the main highway that circles around Iceland. It is approximately 828 miles long and connects most of the inhabited parts of the country, making it a popular route for tourists who want to experience a variety of Icelandic landscapes, including mountains, fjords, glaciers, and coastal regions. We set the tiny town of Vik as our destination and encountered incredible sights along the way.

In the office of the rental car agency hangs an enlarged map of the island. While we were waiting we were able to identify some of the places we’d been. Though it felt like we’d seen and done a lot in a week, there is so much more of Iceland to explore. It is a vast, welcoming country, where in the summertime the sun never sets. We’ve already begun to plot our return trip, this time in search of the Northern Lights.

Travel well, friends!

Peter Thomas is the Editor-in-Chief at HopNews.